Uneven Butterfly Locs – Butterfly Locs have been trending on social media for months now, but you might not have noticed at first. Here’s everything you need to know about the new boho style on the block.
This new style of bars looks very similar to the protective style: worn bars. Aged Locs are the bohemian cousins of the synthetic Locs that became popular a few years ago, but the only difference between Aged Locs and Butterfly Locs is the curly loops created in the Butterfly Loc, which gives them their signature look.
Uneven Butterfly Locs
Butterfly Locs are like a perfect blend of goddess locs and lust twists. The messy, bohemian style is ethereal, low maintenance and very natural looking. For those of us who want a style that changes with the times, doesn’t require a lot of fuss to do, and celebrates curls and coils while still protecting the hair itself, this style might be for you.
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Depending on the length of your natural hair and how long you want your locks to be, you may need two types of hair. If you want places that
Than your hair, you will need about 6 to 8 bundles of some type of 22 to 28 inch water wave. This hair is curly and bouncy, which is what will give you the characteristic loops that give Butterfly Locs their name.
If you decide to go with hair that is longer than your own hair, you will need a hair filler. Technically, you can also use wavy hair to fill in your locks, and you can buy more for that purpose. But many tutorials use Marley’s hair to create an individual braid that you wrap around your wavy hair. Simply weave the gauze into your hair at the desired length.
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Most stylists create 40-50 pieces and you want to make sure they are not too bulky. Longer styles tend to have thinner sites compared to the jumbo sites seen on shorter styles. This helps to reduce the weight of the hair and thus the tension on the scalp.
There are several different methods of installing Butterfly Locs, but whichever method you use, you may want to start by soaking your purchased hair (if it’s synthetic) in an apple cider vinegar rinse. Usually, one part vinegar to two parts water is enough. Soak your hair for a few hours and rinse well. This helps prevent itching if you have a sensitive scalp.
There are several ways to get Butterfly Locs, depending on how much time you have, your skill level, and your patience. The good thing about this style is that you don’t need to be a master knitter to get a beautiful result. Most people can do this style in 3-6 hours, but the longer the length, the longer it can take.
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Choose a parting pattern and braid or twist your hair. Use Shine and Jam or any edge control to arrange the parts. You can choose to wear rubber bands as seen below in The Chic Natural’s video below, but it is optional. (If you’re adding length to your hair, don’t forget to braid Marley’s hair at this point, or you can braid wavy hair like The Chic Natural does in their tutorial.)
This step can be done as you go, or you can do it all at the beginning. Simply take two strands of water wave hair and separate them. You want the result to be soft, but still relatively firm.
Take the crochet hook and run it through the base of the braid, close to the hairline. Place the separated wavy hair on the hook of the pin, close it and pull it out less than half way. You will want about ¾ of the hair curled to one side to start curling. If you are familiar with faux loc techniques, this is very similar to how you would start the box braid extension that goes under the faux loc.
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Now take the shortest section of hair with water waves and secure it with a braid. Then start twisting the braid and the shorter section against it with the longer section of hair wavy. You should wrap the root 5 to 6 times to ensure it is securely attached to the scalp. (This will help keep your style neat for a longer period of time.) But try not to apply too much tension. When rolling, use the thumb technique to create the loops.
The great thing about Butterfly Locs is that it’s okay to make a mess. Be messy while curling your hair, they should not be tight or controlled, the beauty is in the ties and the vagueness of the place. These spots also improve with age, again, the messier the better, so don’t be afraid to embrace the frizz as you age.
When curling wavy hair, wrap one section around your thumb loosely as you continue curling two or three times. This will give the loc the signature loops. Some stylists suggest doing 3 normal twists and then inserting your thumb to “lift” a section of hair before returning it to the curling section.
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Once you have reached the desired length, you will need to close the place and seal the ends. You can achieve this by creating a small loop with your finger at the end and then wrapping the remaining hair into the braid until you run out of wavy hair. You can use nail glue when rolling the remaining inch or two for extra hold. The loop is very important, it will give your loc a nice finish and keep it secure. Do NOT burn the ends.
If you’re more comfortable with the crochet method – which takes less time – you can pin the hair, but I’d suggest leaving the front and back for individual braids/twists to give your style some variety. Adana Maduek does a great job of showing how she incorporates both techniques here. (Here are the pros and cons (mostly pros) of using the crochet method to create box braids and similar styles.)
THIS tutorial 👇🏾 is probably the BEST to watch if you like the crochet method. Mary K Bella shows how to use the crochet method with hair that isn’t pre-styled, which is fine with us now that we don’t have a ton of crochet hair anymore. She is also very funny. I recommend you watch the whole video.
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If you have long hair but want to rock the ends to a bob, it’s actually easier than you think – no haircut required! Check out the tutorial below on how to curl your braids before curling them.
Keeping your style well-groomed and a healthy scalp is a very important part of a protective style. Make sure your hair is washed, well-conditioned and well-hydrated before applying highlights, and you’ll also need periodic maintenance with this style.
Check out the Natural Solar video below for maintenance and how to update locations over a two-week period. Basically, to keep your bars:
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Read the quick guide we created with industry experts on how to install, care for and remove the protection guide.
The short answer is yes, you can wash Butterfly Locs, but you won’t get a “real” wash. If you used the braid and curl method, your hair is wrapped around the synthetic hair. So you won’t have full access to it. With the crochet method, you have relatively more access to your own hair, but you still don’t have full access. Therefore, most people focus on maintaining a clean scalp, as you will see in the video below. Not having full access to your hair is the #1 reason not to leave these types of styles in for too long; 4 weeks is a general rule. As oils and products build up, your hair can become a breeding ground for bacteria. So while these styles (with proper care) can look great for more than four weeks, the longer you go without washing your hair, the more you’re compromising the health of your scalp and hair.
Also, remember that if/when you wash your curls, make sure to dry them COMPLETELY. Keep in mind that you have layers of hair in this style—a braid wrapped around more hair—so it’s easy to lock in moisture throughout.
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That said, cleansing your scalp (this cleansing water works great) and using a dry shampoo like this one is a great way to maintain some level of cleanliness when using your locs.
As mentioned, as a general rule, we suggest keeping only the protective styles for four weeks, especially if you won’t be washing it while wearing it. When it comes to pulling out your butterfly softies, patience is key. Give yourself plenty of time to loosen your locks, as you usually have to untie them first and then release the braids underneath. Have some oil and a spray bottle ready to loosen any build-up and take breaks if you feel tired or frustrated.
