Knotless Braids Gone Wrong – A new way to braid hair is taking root in the bathroom, like braiding. Credit… Makeda Sandford for The New York Times.
Hair can become runny, misshapen, happy, and irritated when you can’t bend down or sit upright. Hair can be short hands, long hands, money pits, drags. Probably no one knows this better than a black woman.
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But it’s not just braids. Many black women use a more popular style: the so-called knotless braid, which is different from the traditional box braid.
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In a classic look—worn by Janet Jackson famously in the 1993 movie “Poetic Justice” that helped cement the style in American beauty culture—the hair is divided into sections, and synthetic strands are attached. with roots The hairdresser who did the braids without strings started by dividing the hair into sections. But then the process changed. They braid natural hair from one and a half inches up. Then eat synthetic food little by little. into the newly created bag.
Because I don’t stick to the roots. Those who choose this style will feel less strain on their heads. The lack of knots also means that no clusters can appear in the box braid. And the new style is well braided. Bags without straps are also lighter.
“It’s very easy to manage,” said Jamilla Dig-Kwashhi, 42, director of health and safety at the New York City Office of the Chief Medical Examiner. “When I tie my hair in a bun or try to style it with a no-string braid, it’s easier, and I know I’m not good at my head. And that’s a very different thing.”
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About three years ago This style is not common. Because hairdressers specialize in braids for black women. Now, at stores like Aminata African Hair Braiding in Harlem, many customers go without a problem.
Astou Fall, who has worked at Aminata since 2000, said he and his colleagues watched YouTube tutorials to learn how to style when clients started asking about knot-free braids in 2020. They practiced on the head. It took about two months for the model to get it, he added.
Ms Faul, 37, from Senegal, said: “Patients without nodes, at first it was harder for us. Because it’s something we don’t know when we get used to it. We find it easier for us. than general braiding.”
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Stylists find that it can be sewn quickly without problems creating fine lines and roots. This means more customers and more income. At Aminata, box braids, whether braided or not, cost $140 for hair length in the back and $180 for waist length hair.
Amanda Spence, client at Aminata African Hair Braiding in Harlem after a recent chalk session. Credit… Makeda Sandford for The New York Times.
The new version also generates demand. In the days before hair salons opened a search page on Instagram, customers could come to any hair salon in Africa without an appointment. Many hairdressers now ask their customers to make appointments online. Some people have to put down a $30 deposit to protect themselves from being exposed. (Aminata’s African hair braiding continues to lead.)
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For Meagan Louis, who braids hair at her own restaurant Soignée BK in Brooklyn’s East Flatbush neighborhood, knot-free braids are good for her business. which she started when a new style was becoming popular.
He said he wasn’t old enough to cut his hair all the time. After graduating from the University of Albany in 2012 with a degree in biology. She worked as a medical laboratory technician and did hair after graduation for extra income.
“I’ll do my 9 to 5, and when I get home I probably hit a couple of clients,” Louis said. “I would do that every day.”
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Meagan Louis at her Soignée BK home in East Flatbush, knot-free braids are good for her business. which she started when a new style came along. Credit… Makeda Sandford for The New York Times.
She would make a quilt for a woman without thread, and that person would send it to another customer, and soon she had more customers than she could handle.
But Mrs. Louis was reluctant. Partly because her parents, who immigrated from the Grenadines, expected her to become a doctor.
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“I was ready to apply to medical school,” said Louise, “but it was time to make a decision. ‘Is it worth 11 more years of going to the surgeon or are you a head full of hair but can you flirt?’
Mrs. Louis eventually quit his job at the lab. It is possible to plan your own time and spend more time with your daughter and son. Who is now 8 and 4 years old, is in his decision, he said.
“I make more money from cutting my hair. And I can be creative,” said Louise. “Science is very difficult. Does it work? it’s science it’s math But here you can get creative. You can do whatever you want.”
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Louise worked from home until the opening of Soignée BK in February 2020. She then fell ill which prevented her from seeing customers for several months. During the first month of separation She has created a social media presence for the hair salon. He said that when he announced that he was ready to meet more customers. He registered the entire month in two minutes.
The pigtails created by Louise have a single look, as if made by a machine. Credit… Makeda Sandford for The New York Times.
Louise gives her clients a special hair section as she gets knot-free braids. Credit… Makeda Sandford for The New York Times.
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New nominations now begin on the 16th of each month at noon. and the full moon almost immediately Ms. Louise describes her success as fast and clean. The dogs he produces are all the same. almost machine-made
Scientists at heart Louise is responsible for making sure that part of the client’s head doesn’t end up in more braids than the rest. which is normal braiding She also requires clients to have their hair at least 4-5 inches long and to wash their hair thoroughly before getting the service. (with old fashion style (It’s almost impossible for a client’s hair to be short.) Louis initially charged $150 for half a head of braids per person. Right now the price is $350 for the same service.
She said she likes knotless braids. This is partly because the process is faster. Another advantage of the new style is that it is difficult to damage the hair as required by the client and the stylist. Some women use traditional braids to wrap around the scalp.
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Dick-Quashie of the health research firm said she chose knotless because it’s known to be gentle. She started seeing Xia Charles, 29, the owner of Braided, a beauty salon in Brooklyn’s Crown Heights neighborhood.
Brooklyn-based hairstylist Xia Charles, whose clients include rapper Cardi B, will open her salon called Braided in 2021. Credit… Makeda Sandford for The New York Times.
Ms Charles, who was born in Trinidad and Tobago, said her grandmother taught hairdressing from the age of three, her skills carried on when she was a student at economics at the University of the West Indies and Cave Hill. Le Barbados
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“When I’m tired of eating ramen I took out two more heads for money,” said Miss Charles. “After I graduated I came home to Tobago and didn’t have a job. So I started cutting my hair in my sister’s tailor on a quiet bench.”
When he moved to the US in 2017, he started getting his hair cut at a barbershop across the street from the house where he lived in Brooklyn.
Ms. Charles said: “The barbershop is not the best place. But I appreciate it for what it is. And it’s a further development. I’m about to learn how they work in America.”
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“People need protection. They want simplicity, ease, and that’s what knot-free braids deliver,” says Ms. Charles.
After five months at the barber shop He rented a booth in the kitchen. to build a customer base He started posting photos of his work on social media. Customers come to the shop to see one of his specialties. That’s a stitch braid. This is a braid that divides the hair horizontally under the spine of the braid. The same goes for knotless braiding. Stitch braiding starts with natural hair and
